Over 80% Cream and Liquid Eyeshadows Detected with Allergenic Heavy Metals Manufacturers Urged to Improve Formulations and Clearly List Ingredients and Expiry Dates

Cream and liquid eyeshadows, which claim to be highly pigmented, smooth in texture and long-lasting, are a useful daily makeup essential for those with a busy lifestyle, making them increasingly popular in recent years. The Consumer Council tested 25 models of cream and liquid eyeshadows with long-lasting claims and detected small amounts of lead in all models, while 2 were found with arsenic, though the detected amounts complied with the Mainland’s relevant standards for cosmetic products and do not pose safety concerns. However, over 80% of the models were detected with heavy metals that may cause skin allergy, thus individuals prone to skin sensitisation should pay extra heed. Additionally, 7 models were found to contain the potential environmental pollutant cyclosiloxane compounds at concentrations over 0.1%, exceeding the limit stipulated in the new European Union (EU) REACH Regulation for leave-on cosmetic products to be implemented in 2027. The Council urges cosmetic manufacturers to promptly review their product formulations and the amounts of impurities in the ingredients. Furthermore, upon reviewing the product labelling information, the Council found that 10 models either listed ingredients only in Japanese or completely lacked an ingredient list, while 9 models did not indicate the expiry date or use period after opening (PAO). The Council anticipates relevant authorities to make reference to the labelling requirements for cosmetic products in the Mainland and EU to establish requirements on important information such as detailed ingredients and expiry dates. Meanwhile, the industry is urged to clearly list the ingredient list and expiry dates on the product package to help consumers identify potential health and environmental pollution risks to make informed choices.

The 25 models included 10 eyeshadow sticks/crayons, 7 cream eyeshadows, and 8 liquid eyeshadows, all of which were single-coloured models. Among them, 15 models claimed that the makeup could last from several hours to 24 hours. 10 models claimed they could be used as both an eyeshadow and eyeliner, and/or for highlighting or shading the under-eye area, while another 2 models were multi-use cosmetic products that could be applied on the eyes, cheeks, and lips. The models were priced between $60 and $360 per tube/jar, equivalent to unit prices ranging from $15 to $211 per gram (or millilitre), a difference of up to 13 times. Among them, stick/crayon models had the highest average price of approximately $160/g, significantly higher than the other 2 product types.

All Models Detected with Safety-related Metal Elements but Amounts in Compliance with Standards

In light of overseas cases of eyeshadow product recalls due to excessive amounts of heavy metals detected, the current test specifically tested the models for 4 elements more relevant to safety, namely arsenic, cadmium, lead, and mercury. The results showed that all models were detected with small amounts of lead at concentrations ranging from 0.063mg/kg to 2.2mg/kg, far below the maximum allowable limit of 10mg/kg set out in the Mainland’s “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics” (2015 edition), and also not exceeding the recommended limit[1] of 5mg/kg of the German Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety (BVL). In addition, 2 models were detected with arsenic at amounts of 0.15mg/kg and 0.28mg/kg respectively, also not exceeding the Mainland’s maximum allowable limit (2mg/kg) and the BVL’s recommended value (0.5mg/kg). Cadmium and mercury were not detected in any models. Overall, the safety-related elements detected in the models did not pose any safety concerns.

Over 80% Models Detected with Allergenic Heavy Metals

Some Models Exceeded the Target Levels Recommended by a Review Article

Apart from safety-related elements, the test also covered 4 elements that could cause skin irritation or allergies, including antimony, chromium, cobalt and nickel. Only 1 model was detected with antimony, with a detected amount of 0.29mg/kg, in compliance with the BVL’s recommended value (0.5mg/kg). 80% of the models (20 models) were detected with cobalt (0.13mg/kg to 1.6mg/kg), 19 models with chromium (1.0mg/kg to 5.4mg/kg), and no models were found with nickel. According to a 2003 Danish review article on contact dermatitis, heavy metals such as nickel, cobalt, and chromium are common causes of allergic contact dermatitis. If good manufacturing practices were adopted, the level of contamination of these 3 heavy metals in consumer products at less than 5mg/kg (per metal) would be an acceptable standard. Based on this more lenient standard, the chromium content (5.4mg/kg) in 1 model was higher than this level.

The review article also pointed out that some sensitive individuals are more prone to allergic reactions. To reduce their risk of developing skin allergies, it is recommended that the content of nickel, cobalt, and chromium in consumer products should be reduced to a target level of no more than 1mg/kg (per metal). With reference to this more stringent standard, 2 out of the 20 models found with cobalt amount higher than this target level; whereas 18 out of the 19 models detected with chromium amounts higher than this level.

Overall, 18 models were simultaneously detected with 2 potential skin-irritating or allergenic heavy metals, hence individuals with allergic reactions to these metals should pay special attention. Meanwhile, 3 models were not detected with any heavy metals that could irritate or cause skin allergies at all, reflecting that from a manufacturing perspective, it is feasible to avoid the presence of these metal impurities in eyeshadow products. The Council urges manufacturers to follow good manufacturing practices, and minimise the amount of heavy metals and impurities in products, so as to strengthen consumer protection.

7 Models Detected with Cyclosiloxane Compounds Posing Environmental Pollution Concerns

Cyclosiloxane compounds including cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and cyclohexasiloxane (D6), can enhance the spreadability and smooth texture of cosmetics, allowing pigments and other ingredients to be evenly distributed on the skin easily. However, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has classified D5 and D6 as substances of very high concern (SVHC), noting their highly persistent and bioaccumulative properties. The wide use of products containing these compounds will eventually release them into the environment, becoming a major source of environmental pollution. 7 models were detected with cyclosiloxane compounds, mainly eyeshadows in stick/crayon and cream forms, all of which were detected with D5, of which 2 models were simultaneously found with D6, with total amounts of D5 and D6 ranging from 0.45% to 13.49%. However, the ingredient information listed on the product labels or official websites of 4 models found with D5 and/or D6 showed variance with the test results. The Council anticipates relevant manufacturers to improve the ingredients labelling and to mimimise the impurities content in their products.

To reduce the potential impact on the environment, the EU’s “REACH Regulation” will stipulate that effective from mid-2027, the concentration of D5 or D6 in leave-on cosmetics should not be equal to or exceed 0.1%. In accordance with this requirement, among the 7 models detected with these substances, the concentrations were all higher than this limit. Although the relevant limit has not yet been officially implemented, considering that D5 is a suspected endocrine disruptor, as well as the impact of D5 and D6 on environmental pollution, the Council still recommends consumers to choose carefully and minimise the use of cosmetics detected with such compounds as much as possible.

10 Models with Ingredient Lists in Japanese or No Ingredient List Shown on Package

Transparency of Labelling Needs Improvement

To facilitate consumers in choosing suitable and safe products, it is crucial for product labels to provide sufficient and accurate information. However, 10 models listed ingredients only in Japanese, or did not have any ingredient information at all, including 1 model detected with preservatives methylparaben and ethylparaben, which may cause allergic reactions on injured skin (the detected amount complied with Mainland and EU regulations). It is worth noting that in many tests or studies on cosmetic products conducted by the Council in the past, certain products were found lacking Chinese or English ingredients lists, reflecting the urgent need for improvement on the situation. Meanwhile, 9 models did not indicate the expiry date or PAO; 13 models that indicated the PAO had periods ranging from 6 months to 18 months, showing a significant difference.

Proper labelling of ingredient information can help consumers make informed choices, while clear and comprehensive expiry date information can prevent consumers from purchasing or using cosmetics of unknown conditions. The Council urges product suppliers to promptly improve the transparency of product labelling and ensure that ingredients are listed in Chinese or English.

When using cream and liquid eyeshadows, consumers may refer to the following recommendations:

• Individuals who have recently undergone eye surgery or have an eye infection should wait until recovery before using eye makeup. Products used during the infection period should be discarded;
• Wash hands before use, and if using makeup brushes, clean them regularly to prevent bacterial growth;
• Be particularly careful when purchasing products with multi-use claims, especially as some pigments permitted for use in eye cosmetics may not be suitable for lip products. Furthermore, if the product is used on multiple facial areas and used more frequently, the chance of microbial contamination may increase, so pay special attention to the product’s expiry date information;
• Products containing sparkle powder or glitter may have small particles that could enter the eye and reach the tear film, and may even irritate the eyes and cause infection, especially for contact lens wearers, and larger glitter particles in cosmetics may even scratch the eyes. If discomfort occurs after use, it is recommended to immediately and thoroughly remove the eye makeup;
• Avoid storing cosmetics in high-temperature environments (above 30°C), such as inside a car compartment or near a window exposed to direct sunlight, to prevent deterioration. Eyeshadow sticks/crayons may melt and break when exposed to heat;
• Consumers who habitually carry eyeshadow for touch-ups or makeup changes should note that the product may be more susceptible to microbial contamination. Pay attention to the indicated PAO and avoid using expired products. The American Academy of Ophthalmology points out that cream or liquid eye makeup products are more prone to bacterial growth and should be discarded 3 months after opening.

Download the article (Chinese only): https://ccchoice.org/584-eyeshadow

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