Airborne pollutants can easily clog pores. Clay masks, known for their strong absorption properties which could help to cleanse pores by removing dirt and excess sebum, have become an essential part of many city dwellers’ deep cleansing routines. In the Consumer Council’s test on 30 models of clay masks, 2 models were detected with heavy metals exceeding the maximum limits set by the Mainland and the United States (US), one of which exceeded the limits for both arsenic and lead, while the other exceeded the limit for arsenic. In addition, according to the requirements for rinse-off products set out in the European Union’s (EU) Cosmetics Regulation, if the concentration of fragrance allergens in such products exceeds 0.01% (individual concentration), the relevant substances must be listed in the ingredients list. 4 models were found to contain 1 to 4 types of fragrance allergens, each at a concentration exceeding 0.01%. All of these models listed the relevant substances in the ingredients list in accordance with the relevant EU requirements. Individuals with skin allergy or eczema should exercise caution. The Council urges manufacturers to stay up-to-date with the latest international regulations and recommendations regarding these substances and to proactively improve their formulations to minimise the levels of heavy metals and fragrance allergens. Furthermore, the Council found that 3 models did not provide detailed ingredient lists in either Chinese or English. Manufacturers are advised to improve labelling to help consumers assess potential health risks and make informed choices.
The test covered 30 clay mask models formulated with various mineral clays as the main ingredient. The models were mainly purchased from department stores, cosmetic brand boutiques and personal care chain stores, with prices ranging from $79 to $610 per jar/tube, equivalent to unit prices from $5.3 to $122 per 10mL or 10g, a 22-fold difference. Conducted with reference to relevant requirements from the EU, the US and the Mainland, etc., the test items included heavy metals, fragrance allergens, salicylic acid, preservatives, microbial safety, as well as a review of the labelling information.
1 Model Exceeded Mainland and US Limits for Both Arsenic and Lead
Mineral clay is a key ingredient in clay masks. However, heavy metals may naturally occur in various minerals, and industrial pollution may also introduce heavy metals into groundwater, making it possible for such products to contain heavy metal impurities. The test results revealed that over 90% of the models (28 models) were detected with at least 1 type of heavy metal. Arsenic was detected in 22 models at levels ranging from 0.29mg/kg to 7.1mg/kg; lead was detected in 28 models at levels ranging from 0.55mg/kg to 14mg/kg. Among these, 1 model was found with 3.1mg/kg of arsenic and 14mg/kg of lead, exceeding the upper limits set by both the Mainland (arsenic: 2mg/kg, lead: 10mg/kg) and the US (arsenic: 3mg/kg, lead: 10mg/kg). Another model contained 7.1mg/kg of arsenic, also exceeding the limits of both jurisdictions. The test results and product information have been referred to the Customs and Excise Department for follow-up.
Furthermore, 2 models were detected with cadmium and 1 model with antimony, but the detected levels did not exceed the relevant safety thresholds set by the Mainland and/or Germany[1].
Although the health risks arising from short-term skin contact with heavy metals is low, prolonged exposure or exposure to high concentrations, or contact through wounds or inflamed skin, may increase the risk of heavy metals being absorbed into the body and accumulating over time. Therefore, consumers should remain cautious.
40% of Models Detected with Fragrance Allergens
Many skincare products are added with fragrance to enhance appeal, but certain fragrance substances may cause allergic contact dermatitis. The test screened for 26 types of fragrance allergens regulated under the EU’s Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EU) 2023/1545). None of the models were found with the 2 prohibited fragrance allergens. However, 40% of the models (12 models) were detected with 1 to 5 types of fragrance allergens, with 1 model found with 5 types, another model with 3 types, 4 models with 2 types, while 6 models contained 1 type. The most commonly detected substances were linalool and limonene, found in 9 and 6 models respectively. Generally, the more types of fragrance allergens a product contains, the higher the potential risk of causing allergic reactions. Individuals with a history of eczema or sensitive skin should avoid products with high concentrations or multiple types of allergenic substances.
According to the requirements of the EU’s Cosmetics Regulation for rinse-off products, if the concentration of fragrance allergens in such products exceeds 0.01% (individual concentration), the relevant substances must be listed in the ingredients list. 4 models were detected with 1 to 4 types of fragrance allergens at individual concentrations higher than 0.01%. All 4 models listed these substances in their ingredient lists in accordance with the relevant EU requirement, thereby helping consumers to make informed choices.
Preservatives Detected in a Few Models – All Within Limits
Parabens are widely used as preservatives in personal care products due to their effectiveness and low cost. However, overseas studies have suggested that these substances may have oestrogen-like properties, potentially affecting the reproductive system and even being linked to breast cancer. 2 models were found to contain methylparaben, 1 of which also contained propylparaben. The detected levels complied with the relevant requirements of the Mainland and the EU.
Inadequate or Unclear Labelling May Increase Usage Risks
Regarding product labelling, 3 models did not provide detailed ingredient lists in either Chinese or English. Without clear information on the ingredients, individuals with eczema or history of allergies to fragrances or preservatives may find it difficult to avoid products containing such substances. Moreover, 1 model did not indicate an expiry date or the period after opening during which the product should be used. 3 models did not include relevant warning statements in either Chinese or English on the packaging. Manufacturers should consider improving the product labelling proactively.
When choosing and using clay masks, consumers may refer to the following recommendations:
- Read the ingredient list, user instructions and labelling carefully before purchase. Individuals with eczema or sensitive skin should choose carefully and avoid products with high concentrations or multiple types of allergenic substances;
- Pay attention to the recommended application time. Leaving the mask on for too long may excessively dry out the skin or increase the risk of allergic reactions. When the mask is almost dry, moisten the face with warm water and gently massage in circular motions to remove dead skin cells, pimples and impurities;
- Even for oily skin, avoid over-cleansing and use a clay mask at most 1 to 2 times per week. For daily cleansing, use a mild facial cleanser in the morning and evening, followed by proper moisturising to help reduce oiliness.
Download the article (Chinese only): https://ccchoice.org/587-masks
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[1] The “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics” in Mainland China and the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have not yet set maximum limits for antimony or its compounds in cosmetics; while the EU prohibits the use of specified heavy metals as ingredients in cosmetics, its Cosmetics Regulation allows trace levels of metal impurities that are technically unavoidable and not intentionally added. Nevertheless, the EU has not established specific maximum limits for the aforementioned metal elements in relation to safety. Therefore, this article refers to the maximum limit for antimony in cosmetics recommended by the Germany Health Authority (BgA) for comparison.