Traces of residual acrylamide monomer detected in cosmetics -CHOICE # 372

Just how much residual acrylamide monomer in a cosmetic is deemed to be harmful to the users?

The question emerged in a Consumer Council test on 30 different samples of face cream and lotion designed to determine the amount of residual acrylamide monomer in these products.

Polyacrylamide which is not toxic is commonly added in cosmetic preparations to act as a stabilizer, foam builder, binder and film former. Residual acrylamide monomer is likely an impurity in most polyacrylamide preparations.

Acrylamide, however, could be neurotoxic if exposed under high dosage and is a possible carcinogen in animals. Based on animal studies, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified acrylamide as Group 2A, a probably carcinogen to humans.

The test detected acrylamide monomer in 7 of the samples - 3 face creams and 4 lotions - ranging from 0.07 mg/kg to 1.6 mg/kg.

The remainder 23 samples were all given a clean bill of health free of acrylamide.

But whether or not these 7 samples with acrylamide are in breach of any established safety standard depends on the standard that is used to evaluate their safety.

In the case of the standard adopted in China and the European Union, the maximum limit is set at 0.1 ppm (0.1 mg/kg) of residual acrylamide for leave-on cosmetics (for body-care products in the case of EU).

By this standard, 6 of the 7 samples detected with acrylamide monomer, from 0.25 mg/kg to 1.6 mg/kg, would be deemed to be in excess of the limit.

However, the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel suggests otherwise, that polyacrylamide (which is a polymer of acrylamide monomer) is safe as a cosmetic ingredient as long as the residual acrylamide content is below 5 ppm (5 mg/kg).

By this standard, all 7 samples would be considered to be in compliance with the suggested upper limit of acrylamide in cosmetic formulations.

Nonetheless, consumers need not worry unduly about the neurotoxic risk caused by the use of cosmetics detected with traces of acrylamide.

According to WHO, there is no definite evidence that the levels of acrylamide encountered in food would cause carcinogenic or neurotoxic effects.

In the US, the CIR Expert Panel also drew the conclusion that neurotoxicity of acrylamide is possible only at high exposure levels and that such levels would not be attained by the normal use of cosmetics.

According to the Department of Health, the normal use of the tested face care products which contained trace amount of acrylamide monomer is unlikely to pose significant health risk to consumers.

In addition, the attention of consumers is drawn to a new symbol which some cosmetic products originating from Europe are found to bear - PAO or period after opening.

The European Union has recommended that cosmetics with a shelf-life of at least 30 months to label the PAO "period after opening", an indication of the period of time after opening for which the product can be used without any harm (due to deterioration and bacterial contamination) to the consumers.

PAO is not applicable to products without physical opening (products in sealed pressurized containers) and single-use products.

However, personal hygiene, use practice and storage condition may affect the effective PAO. Unwashed hands, using bare hands to handle cosmetics, humid condition will shorten the life of cosmetics.

Ophthalmologists suggest to dispose of mascara opened for a month, even though some of the products may make claim of a PAO of 6 months.