Many consumers like to apply moisturisers throughout the year in hope to increase skin hydration while not feeling sticky. In the market, there are a wide range of moisturisers available and their prices vary significantly from over a hundred to a few thousand dollars. The Consumer Council conducted a test on moisturisers and found that most of them delivered good results in terms of skin moisturising efficacy, but those with higher prices or seem to give a better feeling after application do not necessarily mean better results. The Council reminds consumers to, before buying a moisturiser, read the product ingredient list carefully and take note of substances like fragrance, alcohol and some preservatives to avoid the chances of allergies after use.
The Council conducted this test jointly with the International Consumer Research & Testing (ICRT) and invited approximately 530 women, aged between 25 and 66 to test sample products' moisturising effects over a period of 4 weeks. Trial users applied sampled moisturiser on 1 volar arm and the standard moisturiser on the other respectively, and the level of electric capacitance in stratum corneum of both moisturisers were compared before and after use to evaluate the skin moisturising efficacy of individual moisturiser.
17 tested moisturisers available in the local market included 11 moisturisers which claimed for day and night time use, 3 for day use, with the remaining 3 not specifying when they should be applied. Tested moisturiser forms comprised of 8 creams, 7 gels, 1 gel cream and 1 lotion, mainly for normal to combination skin types.
The test showed that most of the moisturisers had good performance in moisturising efficacy. Among the 17 models, 14 moisturisers were rated 3.5 out of 5 points, indicating that their moisturising efficacy was at a satisfactory level, providing performance on a par with the standard moisturiser; 2 models were given 2.5 points, indicating their moisturising efficacy was average, providing performance slightly poorer than the standard moisturiser. The remaining 1 model only received 1.5 points, as there was no significant difference in skin hydration before and after use.
Retail prices of moisturisers vary substantially. This test revealed that the highest-priced ($2,700) and the lowest-priced ($108) models attained both 2.5 points in their moisturising efficacy. The per 10ml price of the two was approximately $450 and $22 in average, representing a difference of 20 times; the second lowest-priced models in the test, with a retail price at $130, received 3.5 points in moisturising efficacy, indicating that cheaper products could also perform well.
To achieve good hydration result, consumers can check the position of glycerin on the product ingredient list, second or third place, indicating there is a relatively higher concentration of such substance in the formula. Glycerin attracts and absorbs moisture and helps the stratum corneum retain moisture.
Test result also showed that there could be inconsistency between users' reviews and the tested moisturising efficacy results. It may be due to the fact that users generally preferred moisturisers that presented more refreshing feelings. Some models which appeared to be more greasy and sticky in texture received average marks in their reviews. Scent of the moisturisers could be another influencing factor. Among the 17 tested models, the highest user rating one (4.5 out of 5 points) was described to have pleasant aroma, which could be easily absorbed and could keep the skin hydrated. However, this model was only rated 2.5 points in its tested moisturising efficacy. The model which had the lowest hydration performance was given 4 points in the user rating, better than some models which recorded good moisturising efficacy.
The Council reminds consumers that, in addition to paying attention to moisturising efficacy, product ingredient information should not be overlooked. All tested models have a detailed ingredient list. Consumers should examine them closely to see if there are common substances that may trigger skin allergies or irritation, such as fragrance allergens, preservatives, alcohol, and even endocrine disrupting chemicals.
The Council has found that among the 17 tested models, 8 models were labelled to contain 1-8 fragrance allergens in their ingredient lists, among which 3 models having 7-8 fragrance allergens. Only 2 models did not contain fragrance or fragrance allergens in their ingredient lists. People with sensitive skin should beware of this factor before purchasing.
Moreover, even though alcohol may have a sterilising effect and help ease the heavy feeling, exposure to alcohol of high concentration over a long period of time can cause irritation, and even dryness to the skin. Over half of the models (i.e. 9 models) in this test were found to contain alcohol in their ingredient lists with some even at the highest position on the list. People who experienced allergic reactions to skincare products with alcohol should choose with great care.
2 models have formaldehyde-releasing substances in their ingredient list that may trigger allergy and irritation to the skin in some people; 1 other model has shown the preservative MIT (methylisothiazolinone) in its ingredient list. However, the supplier claimed there was no MIT in the new formula. Furthermore, 8 models were labelled to contain chemicals which suspected to be endocrine disruptors such as cyclomethicone. Some overseas consumer orgainsations have raised concerns over their safety, but a conclusion can only be drawn after researches.
Apart from the allergens, consumers could also make use of the product ingredient list to study whether a moisturiser contains substances like humectants, emollients and occlusive agents. Other than glycerin, propylene glycol and butylene glycol are common humectants that help skin cuticle absorb moisture from the dermis layer. In addition, petrolatum and mineral oil are occlusive agents that form a thin film on the skin surface to reduce moisture loss. However, their perceived greasy texture is a drawback for users. Consumers can make their own choices based on skin types and conditions, climate and skincare expectations.
When buying and using moisturisers, consumers can refer to the following tips:
- Study the product ingredient list and check if there are any allergens;
- Do not blindly believe the claims such as "dermatologically tested or approved" as such claims will not guarantee these products will not cause skin irritation;
- If there is a slight stinging sensation on skin at the initial stage of application, it may be due to the dryness of tissue or inconspicuous skin damage. If the pain intensifies or there is a burning sensation a few days after application, it may be due to skin allergies. Users are recommended to cease applying such products;
- Product should be used before the expiration date or application period after opening;
- Do not over cleanse as it can easily cause skin dryness.
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